Makalu 8,462 meters (27,762 ft], ranked 5 th highest mountain in the world and is located 22 km (14 mi) east of Mount Everest, on the border between Nepal and China ( 27°53'21?N 87°05'19?E)
Makalu has two notable subsidiary peaks. Kangchungtse, or Makalu II, 7,678 m (25,190 ft), lies about 3 km (2 mi) north-northwest of the main summit. Rising about 5 km (3.1 mi) north-northeast of the main summit across a broad plateau, and connected to Kangchungtse by a narrow, 7,200 m saddle, is Chomo Lonzo, 7,804 m (25,604 ft).
CLIMBING HISTORY The first attempt on Makalu was made by an American team led by William Siri in the spring of 1954. They attempted the southeast ridge but were turned back at 7,100 m (23,300 ft) by a constant barrage of storms. In the fall of 1954, a French reconnaissance expedition made the first ascents of the subsidiary summits Kangchungtse (October 22: Jean Franco, Lionel Terray, Sirdar Gyaltsen Norbu and Pa Norbu) and Chomo Lonzo (October 30(?): Jean Couzy and Terray).
Makalu was first climbed on May 15, 1955 by Lionel Terray and Jean Couzy of a French expedition led by Jean Franco. Franco, G. Magnone and Sirdar Gyaltsen Norbu summitted the next day, followed by Bouvier, S. Coupe, Leroux and A. Vialatte on the 17th. The French team climbed Makalu by the north face and northeast ridge, via the saddle between Makalu and Kangchungtse (the Makalu-La), establishing the standard route.
The first ascent of the southeast ridge route was made by Y. Ozaki and A. Tanaka from a Japanese expedition on May 23, 1970. The very technical West Pillar route was climbed in May, 1971 by Frenchmen B. Mellet and Y. Seigneur. The second ascent of the West Pillar was completed in May, 1980 by John Roskelley (summit), Chris Kopczynski, James States and Kim Momb, without Sherpa support and without bottled oxygen.
On or about January 27, 2006, the French mountaineer Jean-Christophe Lafaille disappeared on Makalu while trying to make the first winter ascent.
Makalu is one of the harder eight-thousanders, and is considered one of the most difficult mountains in the world to climb. The mountain is notorious for its steep pitches and knife-edged ridges that are completely open to the elements. The final ascent of the summit pyramid involves technical rock climbing. Makalu is the only Nepalese 8,000 m peak which has yet to be climbed in true winter conditions.
(Note. Information about above mentioned articles and climbing history of the Mountain are collected from different free media sources and for HNT use only. It does not represent an official data so that if need to correct, we would be grateful to your suggestion & support.)
Day 01 Fly to Tumlingtar;
Day 02: Trek to Mani Bhanjyang; Camping
Day 03: Trek to Chichila; Camping
Day 04: Trek to Mure/Num; Camping
Day 05: Trek to Murmi Danda/Sedua Area; Camping
Day 06: Trek to Tashigaon; Camping
Day 07: Rest Day
Day 08: Trek to Unshisha; Camping
Day 09: Trek to Khongma; Camping
Day 10: Trek to Nghe Kharka/Mumbuk; Camping
Day 11: Trek to Merek Langmale Kharka; Camping
Day 12: Trek to Makalu base camp; Camping
Day 13: Makalu base camp; Camping
Day 14 to day 45 Climbing period for Mt Makalu
Day 46 to Day 56 Treks back to Timlingtar
Day 57 Fly out from Timlingtar to KTM.
Day 58 Free Day for Shooping & Evening celebration time
Day 59 Free day for explore the City
Day 60 Depart home or Extension of trip
Itinerary subject to change
• Peak permit, all govt. taxes & garbage deposit.
• 6 (four) nights hotel in Kathmandu on BB basis.
• Round trip airfare and domestic airport taxes
• Timlingtar -BC-Timlingtar en-route trek with necessary accommodation
• Custom clearances, excess bagages and airport taxes
• Liaison officer
• One head Sardar/Guide
• High Altitude Climbing Sherpa
• Necessary number of porters
• All necessary climbing hardware gears
• All base camp meals + high altitude food (Back pack brand)
• All necessary camping and kitchen gears
• High quality tents for both base camp and high camps
• Gamo bag for medical propose
• Oxygen with regulator set for medical purpose
• Walkie-talkie set with radio base
• Necessary EPI gas with burner
• Solar panel with batteries/ generator with fuel for power supply
• Down jackets/sleeping bags for BC, if require
• Insurance of climbing Sherpa and local team m
• All airport t/ hotel transfers.
• City sightseeing before the expedition
• Medical and personal high risk insurance
• Major meals in KTM
• Personal natures of expenses
• Cost of electronic appliances
• Cost of emergency evacuation
• Tips & Summit bonus to the local staff & sherpas
• International air tickets & departure taxes
Trip duration: 47 Days
Trip Code: HNT-MAKALU-EXP47D
Activity: Sightseeing, trekking & Mountaineering
Starts in: Kathmandu
Ends in: Kathmandu
Accommodation: Hotel, camping
Transportation: Flights, private car or tourist bus
Maximum altitude: 8462M
- Trip Duration: 60 Days
- Trip Duration: 41 Days
- Trip Duration: 30 Days
- Trip Duration: 40 Days
- Trip Duration: 60 Days
- Trip Duration: 47 Days
- Trip Duration: 45 Days
- Trip Duration: 50 Days